Cooking Tools

A Lemony Treat

Early this past Spring, Kay and I traveled through Nashville, Tennessee, down the Natchez Trace, past the birthplace of Elvis Presley (Tupelo, Mississippi), and on to the closest exit to Sturgis, Mississippi. The Trace was fantastic; it is a scenic parkway that was constructed by the federal government that follows the route that rafters would walk North after taking their goods down the Mississippi River to New Orleans. If you have the time, try the Trace; just remember that your speed on it is considerably limited.

We had been invited to Sturgis to visit the 200 acre MacNeill farm. Barton MacNeill, a member of the class of 1940 of our local New Jersey high school (Penns Grove Regional High School), had been a friend of our family when I was just a little guy. After the Japanese actions of December 7, 1941, Bart enlisted in the Army, and he became a B-17 pilot flying out of England on bombing missions over Germany. His plane was shot down on what was to become his last mission; he spent the balance of the war as a POW. His military life, including his year or so of imprisonment, was the subject of one of the chapters that I wrote in my book Our Final Salute.

Sturgis is a very small, though closely knit, community. There are no strangers, except for those of us who are just passing through. The larger depositors of the only bank in town meet every morning for about an hour at the bank for coffee in the conference room, and Bart was one of them.

On Bart's farm, as is true with nearly all of the farms in the area, they raise and harvest pine trees. We learned much about that kind of agriculture during our stay.   

On his farm, Bart had built a "cabin" for his guests to use while visiting. It had two large porches, each of which overlooked a pond. The main part of the structure had a large kitchen with dining area, a living room, a very large dining area, one bedroom and a bath. The other part of the building had another bath and sleeping facilities for his many children and grandchildren. The two parts were separated by what is known as a "Dog Trot". Quite simply, a Dog Trot is the empty space between the two parts of the building. If anyone knows the derivation of the expression, I would like you to tell me about it.

On our last day in Sturgis, we told the MacNeills (Bart, Kate, his son and his daughter-in-law) that we would fix dinner that evening; they would be our guests in the cabin. We were without cookbooks, so we had to prepare foods that were part of our repertoire. They were; Clam Chowder, salad, and Lemon Sponge Custard. A couple bottles of good Chardonnay, well-chilled, were also included. The lemony dessert was exceptionally well receive; the MacNeills (all of them) literally wiped the serving dish clean with their spoons and fingers.

Let's look at the Lemon Sponge Custard:

Ingredients And What To Do With Them:

Cream 3/4 cup sugar, 1 1/2 tablespoons butter, 1 tbs grated lemon peel; add and beat well 2 or 3 egg yolks; stir in 3 tbs all-purpose flour alternately with 1/3 cup lemon juice, 1 cup milk. Beat until stiff 2 or 3 egg whites, 1/8 tsp salt. Fold the whites into the yolk mixture. Place the batter in buttered custard cups, or in a 7 inch oven-proof dish. Bake the sponge in a moderate oven (350F) for about 45 minutes for the cups and about an hour for the baking dish, or until set. You may serve warm or at room temperature.

The batter separates while cooking, leaving a spongy top and a saucelike substance on the bottom.

You will receive compliments galore when you serve this for dessert.

Bon appetit,

David

P.S.(Added on November 24, 2007) For those who do not like the taste of lemons, a twist to the recipe is the following:

Ingredients And What To Do With Them:

Cream 3/4 cup sugar, 1 1/2 tbs butter, 1 tbs grated orange rind, Add and beat well 3 egg yolks, Stir in 3 tbs all-purpose flour alternately with 1/3 cup orange juice and 1 cup milk; beat until stiff 3 egg whites and 1/8 tsp salt; fold the egg whites into the yolk mixture. Proceed as per the lemony instructions.

(Photo by Amy Mew, posted on www.Flickr.com , license details there.)

Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches

Jim and I enjoy the stories that accompany your recipes; we especially enjoyed your recent story about our visit to Beaver Island. It brought back so many fond memories. Keep up the good work.

As you know, we moved to Hilton Head, South Carolina, a few years ago when we decided it was time for Jim to retire.  It was quite a change, especially in the area of foods; we found ourselves eating okra, grits, Paula Deen’s rich saucy dishes, and the specialty of the area: barbeques of all varieties. 
The addition of Carolina Pulled-Pork Sandwiches to our cooking repertoire has been a source of joy for our Northern friends, and we continue to welcome them often.

I am attaching the recipe for those great sandwiches so that you can pass it along to your many readers. We hope that you and they enjoy them as much as we do.

CAROLINA PULLED-PORK SANDWICHES

In this recipe, a "dry rub" of brown sugar, pepper, paprika and salt flavors the meat before it is cooked, and a vinegary "mop" is brushed onto the pork to add more taste as it is smoked. Once cooked, the meat is "pulled," that is, shredded into slivers that are just the right size for piling onto a bun. The sandwich —drizzled with a bit of the vinegary sauce, which cuts the richness of the meat — is the ultimate in Carolina barbecue. Cook this in a smoker or a barbecue that has been converted to a smoker.

For dry rub

3 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper
3 tablespoons (packed) dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons coarse salt
1-teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 untrimmed boneless pork shoulder halves (also known as Boston butt; about 6 pounds total)

For mop

1-cup apple cider vinegar
½ cup water
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
1-tablespoon coarse salt
2 teaspoons vegetable oil

8 pounds (about) 100% natural lump charcoal or charcoal briquettes
6 cups (about) hickory wood smoke chips, soaked in cold water at least 30 minutes

12 soft hamburger buns with seeds split

Carolina Red Barbecue Sauce:

This recipe can be prepared in 45 minutes or less.  Unlike sauces from Texas and Kansas City, this sauce from South Carolina's Piedmont area is thin and vinegary. Note that it is not cooked. To tone down the tartness, add more ketchup and brown sugar to taste.

1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar
1/2-cup ketchup
1-tablespoon (packed) brown sugar
1-teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dried crushed red pepper

Stir all ingredients in small bowl until sugar and salt dissolve. (Can be prepared 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Makes about 2 cups.

Tangy Coleslaw:

There's Carolina Red Barbecue Sauce in this, a "must" with the pork.

1-cup mayonnaise
1/2 cup Carolina Red Barbecue Sauce
1 2 1/2-pound green cabbage, quartered, cored, very thinly sliced

Whisk 1-cup mayonnaise and 1/2-cup barbecue sauce in large bowl to blend. Mix in sliced cabbage. Season slaw to taste with salt and pepper. Refrigerate 3 to 8 hours, tossing occasionally.

Serves 12

What to do with the ingredients:

Make dry rub:

Mix first 5 ingredients in small bowl to blend.
Place pork, fat side up, on work surface. Cut each piece lengthwise in half. Place on large baking sheet. Sprinkle dry rub all over pork; press into pork. Cover with plastic; refrigerate at least 2 hours. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.)

Make mop:

Mix first 6 ingredients in medium bowl. Cover and refrigerate.

Following manufacturer's instructions and using lump charcoal and 1/2 cup drained wood chips for smoker or 1 cup for barbecue, start fire and bring temperature of smoker or barbecue to 225°F. to 250°F. Place pork on rack in smoker or barbecue. Cover; cook until meat thermometer inserted into center of pork registers 165°F., turning pork and brushing with cold mop every 45 minutes, about 6 hours total. Add more charcoal as needed to maintain 225°F. to 250°F. temperature and more drained wood chips (1/2 cup for smoker or 1 cup for barbecue with each addition) to maintain smoke level.

Transfer pork to clean rimmed baking sheet. Let stand until cool enough to handle. Shred into bite-size pieces. Mound on platter. Pour any juices from sheet over pork.   If you make this in the oven use 325 to 350 degrees for 6 to 8 hours or until it falls apart.  IF you have to do this in the oven you can add 1 to 2 T liquid smoke to the mop.  (Can be made 1 day ahead. Transfer pork and any juices to baking dish.  Cover with foil; chill. Before continuing, rewarm pork, covered, in 350°F. oven about 30 minutes.)

Divide pork among bottoms of buns. Drizzle lightly with barbecue sauce. Top with coleslaw. Cover with tops of buns.

Serves 12.

Bon Appétit,

Judy Vogel

Lake Michigan Trout ala Beaver Island

On a good day in the summer, Lake Michigan is a sailor's delight; there is a slight roll and the wind is enough to move the boat at a reasonable speed, and the sun is just enough to warm the body. For obvious reasons, Rich and I love the lake. Many times we towed our 23 ft. Hunter sailboat from its normal mooring on Eagle Creek Reservoir to a Lake Michigan marina from which we would explore the nearby ports of Holland, Saugatuck, South Haven, Grand Haven, Michigan City and Chicago. The vast difference in size of the water and the number of cities with ports was awesome, and it made us downright giddy. Lake Michigan, as you may know, is huge; it covers about 22,400 square miles--some people refer to it as an inland ocean. I won't begin to compare it to Eagle Creek.

One year we decided to explore the ports further North on the Michigan side of the lake; for that, we needed a larger boat, mainly because we would be farther from shore for longer periods of time. We had great fun planning our itinerary, making a list of supplies, and plotting our proposed course on the nautical maps we purchased for this venture. Our sailing buddies, Jim and Judy Vogel, allowed as how they were up to the trip, so we chartered a 40 ft. Tartan out of the Traverse City marina for the grand adventure.

After sailing from Traverse City, we visited Sutton's Bay; our overnight dock-age was in Charlevoix. All of the marinas in the port cities, whether publicly or privately owned, have an ample number of (electricity available) docks that visiting boaters can use, and clean showers et cetera are nearby. On docking, Judy and I would usually walk to the many appealing stores that were nearby, while Rich and Jim would clean the boat and make minor, though necessary, fittings.

On sailing from Charlevoix the next day, we headed for Mackinac Island. However, because of lighter winds and greater distance than at first expected, we put in at Beaver Island, after a long day under sail. The island, with a year round population of some 600 people, is located 40 miles West of the Straits of Mackinac, and it is the most remote inhabited island in the Great Lakes. Although a large percentage of its residents are of Irish descent, there are a few remnants of the group of Morman dissidents led by J. J. Strang who settled on Beaver Island in 1849. The State of Michigan owns a large portion of the island, and it has preserved its natural and pristine beauty.

After docking and securing the boat, we set out to explore the island in our rented Jeep. Our explorations included climbing a working lighthouse lookout tower that offered a scenic, panoramic view of the rugged coastline. We passed modest, though sturdily built, year-round homes, artist colonies, and magnificent vacation homes. Soon it was time to look for a place to have dinner. It was our custom to have breakfast and lunch on board--then look for a unique spot for a tasty dinner.

In our search, we came upon an out-of-the-way eatery known as The Old Rectory. It was, as the name suggested, an old wooden house that had been used as a rectory in its former life. In our time, it was a seasonal restaurant. It was in The Old Rectory that we had the most wonderful pecan encrusted lake trout that had been caught that day in the cool waters of Lake Michigan. Having a fantastic piece of fish coated with pecans was a new culinary treat for us, and we have been successful in duplicating it at home with equally delicious results, although we tend to use cod rather than lake trout.

We hope you will try this recipe with your favorite fish.

Ingredients:

4 cod fillets (or fish of your choice), 1 cup roasted pecans (you may substitute almonds), 1/4 cup bread crumbs, 1 or 2 tbs olive oil, Emeril's essence (a seasoning found in most supermarkets)

What To Do With The Ingredients:

Combine the nuts and bread crumbs in a food processor until it resembles a mealy texture. Season the fillets with Essence and saute in olive oil in a grill pan about 2 minutes on each side. Next, top each fillet with the nut bread crumb mixture as they remain in the grill pan, then place the grill pan in a 400F oven for 6 to 8 minutes, or until crust is golden brown and the fish are thoroughly cooked. Serve with lemon and your favorite sauce, if desired.

As you know, we normally use cod, but there are many types of fish that could be used, including walleye pike. We use a recently acquired square non-stick grill pan that we find useful for many dishes that we do on the stove-top, including steaks. These can be found at amazon.com by using the following address: www.amazon.com?%5Fencoding=UTF8&tag=cooktool-20

Oh, by the way, don't rush off to Beaver Island to have dinner at The Old Rectory; we've heard that it is now closed. How sad!

Bon Appetit,

Pat

(Photo by Don Harrison at http://www.flickr.com; license details there)

"Easy as Pie" Apple Pie

The expression "Easy as Pie" is rarely, if ever, used these days, and its origins seem to be lost. From watching my grandmothers, my aunts, my mother, and the mothers of my friends go about their baking, the phrase was somewhat ludicrous. There was nothing easy about pie making! As we discussed in the posting about Shoofly Pie, baking was an all-day affair, and it involved an incredible knowledge of not only doughs, but of the various fillings that went into the pies whether they were for a dessert or the main meal.

Now, however, we can submit to you an "Easy as Pie" apple pie that you will enjoy making and eating. Some people refer to it as an upside-down pie, because it has no bottom crust--only a crust on top, and just to facilitate its making and baking, we use a crust that is purchased in the refrigerated foods section of your supermarket. Our choice of crust was Pillsbury, but another brand would probably do just as well.

There are two tools that are used in making this treat: a 12" iron skillet and a mandolin. If you do not have these tools, we suggest that you check with Amazon.com.

Ingredients:

1 stick of unsalted butter, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon, 6 Gala apples, 1 refrigerated prepared pie crust, 1 can apple pie filling, some apple juice and some granulated sugar.

What To Do With The Ingredients:

Using your mandolin, slice the six Gala apples (you may first peel them, if that is your heart's desire); we prefer the slices to be about 1/4 inch thick; by using the mandolin, the slices will be uniform, and it is easier to do than wielding a knife. Store the apple slices in lemon-lime soda (you may use Seven-Up, even if you don't own its stock) until ready for use. Roll the crust so that it is thinner and will fit edge to edge in your 12" iron skillet, but first dust the crust with flour so it won't stick to your rolling pin. Melt the butter in skillet, then stir the brown sugar and cinnamon into the melted butter, then add the sliced apples and apple pie filling, stirring gently while doing so. Cap the mixture in the skillet with the rolled pie crust, while gently tamping the edges around the filling. Cut a vent in the crust so that the steam that will be generated can escape. Lightly brush the crust with some apple juice, then lightly sprinkle it with a bit of granulated sugar. Bake at 425F for 30 to 35 minutes, until the crust is a golden brown.

Wasn't that easy?

Served warm with vanilla ice cream is truly a treat.

Bon appetit,

DAW

(Image by Karen Cox on Flickr under Creative Commons license.)